Lace fabric and method of making the same



April 25, 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL 2,981,139

LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1959 3Sheets-Sheet 1 FIG.]

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ATTORNEY 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAMEFiled July 22, 1959 April 25 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIG. 6

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INVENTORS [ff/1'02 Jar/fer April 25, 1961 E. SUTTER ETAL 2,981,139

LACE FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING THE SAME Filed July 22, 1959 3Sheets-Sheet 3 lwml/Jml U In the; drawings:

' v. Fig. lfiis ajdiagrammatic ingthe' lace fabric of the presentinventiong.

United Stat LACE FABRIC AND METHOD F MAKING THE SAME Elliot Sutter,Baldwin, and Herbert Rubin, East Meadow,

N.Y., assignors to Native Laces & Textiles, Incorporated, New York,N.Y., a corporation of New York This invention relates to theconstruction of lace fabric and to a method of making lace fabric.

Lace fabric having warp threads, beam threads and liner threads has arough hand or feel at the back surface thereof so that the lace isuncomfortable against the surface of the skin. Accordingly, a separatebacking fabric or layer is provided which is fastened to the lace fabricat the back surface thereof, as by sewing, so that the fabric will havea smoother hand. Such a construction is fairly common in the cups ofbrassieres made of lace. Thecombined lace fabric with its separatebacking layer provides the proper aesthetic effect due to the lacedesign at the front thereof and, at the same time, has a smooth hand dueto the joined backing layer at the back thereof. However, it will bereadily apparent that this construction is relatively expensive becausethe lace construction is made of two separate fabrics which are joinedtogether to give the combined result of a smooth hand and a certainaesthetic appearance.

Accordingly, one of the objects of the present invention is to provide alace fabric, as an integrally const-ructed unit, which has the aestheticeffect due to the lace design as well as a smooth hand or feel at theback surface thereof.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a backing layerfor a lace fabric which is integral with the lace fabric.

A further object of the present invention is to provide a backing layerintegral with a lace fabric, the backing layer being so constructed asto provide a fining background for the lacefabric.

A still further object of the presentinvention is to provide a backinglayer integral with a lace fabric, wherein the backing layer is soconstructed as to provide a design fonthe fabric at the back thereof. YYet another objectof the present: invention is to=provide an improvedconstruction of lace fabric.

"A. further object of the ,present invention is to. provideanimprovedwmethod.ofmakinglace fabric. j 7

The 'above'and lother objects, features. and advantages of thisinventionwilhbe fully nnderstood, ;fr om the fol lowing description consideredin. connection with the ac companyingillustrative drawings -of thepresently preferred embodiment ofthis invention.

a Levers la'cemachine which may be employed for makrFig.:; 2,:is ..afragmentary elevationalwiew showing" part of themachine illustratedinFig." 1; p 1 Fig. isfi-a plan view 'of-a piece of lace, on a greatlyenlarged scale, showing one-eighth of a repeat, the lace beiilg'shownhaving no backing layer;

fFig. a plan" view ofa'pieceofjlace, on a greatly eighth (if a repeatbeing shown} ie hlar'ged scale,- pursu'ant to "the present inventi0n,onepresent invention illustrating the appearance of the front surfacethereof;

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the same lace shown in Fig. 5 illustrating theappearance of the back surface thereof; and

Fig. 6a is a fragmentary plan view of a piece of lace pursuant to (thepresent invention having a design at the back surface thereof.

Referring now to the drawings in detail and particularly to Figs. 1 and2 thereof, there is shown diagram: matically a Levers lace machine 10,only those parts of the machine essential to the description of theinvention being shown. It is to be understood that the invention is notlimited to the use of any particular type of machine. A roller or mainwarp beam 12. is suitably supported in the frame of the machine andcarries the main warp threads 14. Only one warp beam is provided and itwill be understood that this warp beam carries all the warp threadswhich comprise the pillar layer of the fabric. Disposed below and behindthe main warp beam are a number of auxiliary rack beams 16, forty-eight(48) of such rack beams being illustrated. Each of the rack beamscarries a beam thread 18 which provides the net and design for the lacefabric. It will be understood that each of the rack beams is suitablysupported in the frame of the machine. Each of the beam threads passesfrom their respective rack beams through eyelets 20 provided on guidingrods 22 which are suitably supported in the frame of the machine.

Disposed above and slightly to the rear of main warp beam 12 is anotherwarp beam or roller 24 which carries threads 26 which provide a backinglayer for the lace fabric in accordance with the invention as will bemore fully understood from the following description.

Disposed above the warp beams and rack beams is a sley'28 which issuitably supported in the frame of the machine. The sley includes aplurality of holes 30 through which the individual threads constitutingthe lace fabric pass. Only that part of the sley is shown which includesall the threads necessary to make one complete design, it beingunderstood that the sley continues throughout the length of the machine.In the particular illustration shown, a repeat of the design of thefabric consists of forty-eight (48) main warp threads 14, fortyeight(48) beam threads 18, forty-eight. (48) threads 26 for the backinglayer, and twelve (12) liner threads 32. The liner threads provide theheavier outline along the peripheral edge of the design portions of thelace fabric. The liner beams or rollers 34 are disposed immediatelybelowthe rack beams 16 and are suitably supported in the frame of themachine in a manner similar to the support for the rack :beams. Each ofthe liner threads 32 is led off its respective beam and-passes throughits respective eyelet 20 on the guide rodZZ and through its re-.spective hole 30 in the sley. 1 For the particular design-of the laceshown, there are provided in the sley, two rows of. six-holes each forthe perspective viejw of a part of liner threads, eight rows of sixholeseach for the beam threads; ffourfr'ows' of. twelve holes "each for-thewarp threads and four rows .of "twelve holes each for the threadsconstituting the backingllayer for thefabric, as

' Fig.- 5*is a'plan view ofa piece of lace pursuantto the l shown. inFig. l.

is one-half'the distance of. the spacing of the holes for Patented Apr.25, 196i The holes-forthe warp threads and the holes for the threadsconstituting the backing layer" forthe fabric are spaced the samedistance apart which 3 of the bars is provided with holes 38 throughwhich the various threads constituting the lace fabric pass. In theparticular design shown, there are twelve (12) bars for the linerthreads, each bar carrying one thread. For the beam threads, there areforty-eight (48) bars, each bar also carrying one thread. For the warpthreads, there are four (4) bars, each bar carrying twelve (12) threadsand for the threads comprising the backing layer, there are also four(4) bars, each bar carrying twelve (12) threads. The bars carrying thebeam threads are located in front of the bars carrying the warp threads.The bars carrying the threads constituting the backing layer of thefabric are behind the bars carrying the warp threads. The bars carryingthe liner threads are in front of the bars carrying the beam threads,all as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It will be understood that theJacquard mechanism controls the movement of each bar with respect toeach other, and since the warp threads and the threads constituting thebacking layer move in groups of twelve (12) threads each in a uniformmanner, twelve (12) threads may be placed on one bar. With respect tothe beam threads and liner threads, each of these threads moves withrespect to each other in a random manner according to the predeterminedpattern of the design and, accordingly, each of the threads is providedwith its own individual bar to control the movement thereof. The barsmoves parallel to the length of the machine, to the right or left asviewed in Fig. 1.

As the warp threads, liner threads, beam threads and threadsconstituting the backing layer deflect to the right or left, through theaction of the Jacquard mechanism, the bobbin threads 40 will pass on oneside of a given thread and on its return movement on the other side ofthe given thread, thus forming a twist to interconnect the threads witheach other and form a unitary structure. The bobbin threads are carriedin a bobbin 42 and the bobbins are carried in a carriage 44. The forwardand backward motions of the carriage, which is transverse to the motionof the bars, are caused by the catch bars 46, as best seen in Fig. 2.There are two catch bars, one catch bar being placed to the right of thecarriage for engaging groove 48 thereof and pulling the carriage to theright, and a catch bar to the left of the carriage for engaging groove56 thereof and moving the carriage to the left, as viewed in Pig. 2. Thecarriages move back and forth in comb lead 52 which is suitablysupported in the machine.

Disposed above the bobbins is a pair of point bars 54 and 56,respectively, which are adapted to move up and down to compress thetwists of the threads caused by the movements of the warp, beam, bobbin,and liner threads and the threads constituting the backing layer of thefabric. The upward movement of each of the point bars is terminated atthe facing bar 58 of the machine. After the point bars have moved up andcompressed the twist caused by the motions of the barsand bobbins, thepoint bars move down into position ready to compress the twist caused bythe next motions of the bars and bobbins. By compressing the twist, thenewly formed lace joins the previously formed. lace to construct thefabric. v

The new lace moves. and partly around a porcupine roll 60 which turnsenough to a make roomfifor the newly formed lace. The lace is wrappedaround an upper roller 62 which rests upon the porcupine'rolls. Theporcupine roll is covered' with short metal points and holds lthe lacetaut as it is produced after it has passed over the flat metal surfaceof the facing bar 58. Variations in quality of the lace are obtained bycontrolling the speed of movement of the porcupine roll.

Referring now to Fig. 3, there is shown a greatly enlarged view of apiece of lace which may be made on the machine illustrated in Figs. 1and 2, with the threads 26 of warp beam 24 which constitute the backinglayer eliminated so that the-lace fabric will be in accordance withpreviously known lace construction. The figure illustrates one-eighth ofa repeat of a lace design and it will be noted that there are six warpthreads shown, namely, warp threads 64, 66, 68, 70, 72 and 74,respectively. This is a total of six threads or one-eighth the number ofwarp threads shown in Figs. 1 and 2. It will be seen that the warpthreads are spaced across the width of the fabric and extend lengthwisethereof. The beam threads which are interconnected with the warp threadsto form the net and design portions of the lace fabric are identified bythe reference numerals 76, 78, 80, 82,

84, 86, 88, 90, 92, 94, 96, 98, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 110, 112, 114,116 and 1 18, respectively. The bobbin threads are indicated by thereference numerals 120, 122, 124, 126, 128 and 130, respectively. Theliner threads are indicated by the reference numerals 132 and 134,respectively.

The warp threads (64-74) comprise the pillar layer of the fabric and areinterconnected with the other threads constituting the fabric, the warpthreads being twisted about the bobbin threads as shown. The beamthreads (76-118) comprise a layer disposed in front of the pillar layerand havetheir threads hooked about or twisted over the warp threads ofthe pillar layer. For example, beam thread passes over warp thread 64and bobbin thread 120, then under both of the aforesaid threads, thenover both of the aforesaid threads, over beam thread 66 and bobbinthread 122, under both of the aforesaid threads, then over both of theaforesaid threads to the next warp thread where the pattern of movementof beam thread 80 continues. The interconnection of the beam threads,warp threads, and bobbin threads, as just described, provides thenet-portion of the lace fabric, the net portion being indicated at A.

In the areaof'the design portion of the fabric, indicated at B, the beamthread, as for example beam thread 88, passes over threads 64 and 120,under threads 64 and 120, over threads 64 and 120, over threads 66 and122, under threads 66 and 122, over threads 66 and 122, over threads 68and 124, under threads 68 and 124, over threads 68 and 124, over threads70 and 126, under threads 70 and 126, under threads 68 and .124. overthreads 68 and 124, over threads 70 and 126, over threads 72 and 128,under threads 72 and I128, over threads 72 and 128, over threads 74 and130, under-threads 74 and 130, and over threads 74 and 130. Thus it willbe seen that the beam threads are interconnected with the warp threadsof the fabric to also form the design portions of the fabric. It willalso be seen that the beam threads are disposed in front of the warpthreads comprising the pillar layer of the fabric.

The liner threads provide the outline for the design portion of thefabric and are connected to the fabric in front of the beam threads bythe bobbin threads. As viewed in Fig. 3, liner thread 132 passes underbobbin thread 124, over the other threads ofthe fabric in the vicinityof thread 124, under bobbin thread 124, over the other threads, underbobbin thread 124, under bobbin thread 126, under bobbin thread 128,turns and goes under bobbin thread 128 again, turns and goes over bobbinthread 128, turns and goes under bobbin thread 128, under bobbin thread126, under bobbin thread 124, under bobbin thread 124, turns and goes'under'bobbin thread 124, turns again and goes under bobbin thread 124and then continues in a similar manner throughthe length of the fabric.Inall cases, it will be'noted that the;liner threadgoes 'over all theother threads. comprising the fabric except the bobbin thread whichinterconnects the liner thread to the fabric atthe front thereof. I I 1Referring now to Fig. 4, it will be seen that the lace fabric showntherein is identical to the lace fabric shown in Fig. 3, except that anadditional backing layer has been provided at the back of the pillarlayerof the fabric in accordance with the invention. The backing layercomprises a series of threads indicated by reference numerals 136, 138,140, 1'42, 144 and 146, respectively, and each of these threads isinterconnected with the fabric to provide a backinglayer for the fabricintegral therewithv at the back of the pillar layer of the fabric. Forexample, thread 136 goes over thread 120, under thread 120, under allthe other threads constituting the fabric in the area of bobbin thread122, under all the other threads constituting the fabric in the area ofbobbin thread 124, turns and goes over bobbin thread 124, over bobbinthread 122, over bobbin thread 120, turns and goesunder bobbin thread120, and continues in a similar manner as previously described toprovide a backing layer for the fabric integral with the pillar layer ofthe fabric at the back thereof. It will be noted in the embodimentshownin Fig. 4 that the number of threads comprising the backing layercorresponds to the number of warp threads in the pillar layer and thatthe threads comprising the backing layer are so arranged with respect toeach other and the warp and bobbin threads, in the manner previouslydescribed, so as to provide an effective fining background for thefabric. The number of threads comprising the backing layer may be variedas desired. .This finingbackground provides a smooth hand for the fabricat the back thereof. In this regard,

it will be understood thatthe pattern of movement of the threadscomprising the backing layer may be varied according to the Jacquardmechanism of the machine to provide various degrees offineness for thebacking layer. The pattern of movement of each of the threads comprisingthe backing layer is identical, each thread comprising the backing layerpassing in front of a warp thread, passing in backof the same warpthread, passing in back of two adjacent warp threads, and then turningand passing in front of the same two adjacent war-p threads to completea single pattern of movement whereby the thread is repositioned forrepeating the same movement.

Referring nowto Fig. 5, there is shown a plan view of the front ofthelace fabric made in accordance with theapresent'invention and it will benoted that the backing-layer is not readily apparent so that the properaesthetic effect due' to. the lace fabric design at the front thereofhas not been impaired. Figs 6 shows a plan view of the same lace fabricof Fig. 5, as viewed from thebackthereof, showing the backing layerintegral with the -.pillar layer of thefabric. i

Referring now to Fig-6a, there is shown a fragmentary'view of the backof the lace fabric wherein the threads-comprising.the backing layer havebeen moved in-annanner similar to the beam threads of the fabric so-thata.de'sign has been providedfor the fabric at the back. thereof, in lieuof the'fining background shown in Fig. Irwill be recalled that thethreads 26 comprising the backing layer are under the controlrof theJacquard mechanism and therefore may be interconnected with the pillarlayer of the fabri'c'according to any predetermined pattern, the patternillustrated in Fig. 4 providing a fining background for the fabric. InFig. 6a, the threads =26 have been "interconnected with the pillar layerof the fabric in a manner similar to the beam threads 18 of the fabricso that a design has been provided for the fabric at the back thereof.Of course, with the backing layer of .the fabric so arranged as toprovide a design thereof, the hand of the fabric at the back thereofwill no longer be smooth.

While we have shown and described the presently preferred embodiments ofthe invention, it will be understood that the invention may beembodiedotherwise as than herein specifically illustrated or described,and that in the illustrated embodiment certain changes in the de-- tailsof construction and in the form and. arrangement of parts may be madewithout departing from the underlying idea or principles of theinvention. Accordingly,

'6 We do not wish to be limited to the precise construction shown ordescribed herein, except as may be required by the scope of the appendedclaims.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim and desire to secureby Letters Patent is:

1. Alace fabric, comprising a'pillar layer having a series of warpthreads spaced across the width'of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, and another layer disposed at the back of said pillar layer toprovide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer comprisingthreads interconnected with said pillar layer throughout the entireextent thereof so that said backing layer is integral with said fabricthroughout the entire length and width thereof, said threads comprisingsaid backing layer being arranged to provide a smooth hand for saidfabric at the back thereof and thereby provide a fining background forsaid fabric, the number of threads comprising said backing layer beingequal to the number of warp threads in said pillar layer.

2. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warpthreads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, and another layer disposed at the back of said pillar layer toprovide a backing layer for said fabric, said backing layer comprisingthreads interconnected with said pillar layer so that said backing layeris integral with said fabric, said threads of said backing layer passingin front of a warp thread, passing in back of said warp thread, passingin back of tWo adjacent Warp threads, and passing in front of said twoadjacent warp threads whereby said threads are repositioned forrepeating the movement to provide 'a fining background at the back ofsaid fabric and provide a smooth hand therefor.

3. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warpthreads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layerhavin'g beamthreads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for saidfabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at'therear of said pillar 'layer to provide a net backing layer for saidfabric, saidbacking layer having threads twisted about said warp threadsof said pillar layer so that said backing layer is integral with saidfabric, and a liner layer disposed at the'front of said pillar layer toprovide an outline for said design, said fabric being provided withbobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the frontthereof.

4. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of Warpthreads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer having beamthreads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for saidfabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at therear of said pillar layer to' provide a backing layer for said fabric,said backing layer having threads twisted about said warp threads ofsaid pillar layer so that said backing layer is integral with saidfabric, said backing layer being a net layer and extending throughoutthe entire length and Width of the fabric, said threads comprising saidbacking layer'being arranged toprovide a smooth hand for said fabric atthe back thereof and thereby provide a fining backgnound for saidfabric, and a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer toprovide an outline for said. design, said fabric being provided withbobbin threads to'connect vsaidliner layer to said fabric at the frontthereof.

twisted about said Warp threads to provide the net for said fabric and adesign at the frontthereofianother layer disposed :attthe' rear of saidpillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric, said backinglayer having threads twisted about said warp threads of said pillar.layer so as to define a net backing layer which is integral with saidfabric, said threads comprising said backing layer being arranged toprovide a smooth hand for said fabn'cat the back thereof and therebyprovide a fining background for said fabric, the number of threadscomprising said backing layer being equal to the number of warp threadsin said pillar layer, and a liner layer disposed at the front of saidpillar layer to provide an outline for said design, said fabric beingprovided with bobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabricat the front thereof.

6. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of Warpthreads spaced across the Width of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer, having beamthreads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for saidfabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at therear of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric,said backing layer having 'said pillar layer to provide an outline forsaid design,

said fabric being provided with bobbin threads to connect said linerlayer to said fabric at the front thereof.

7. A lace fabric, comprising a pillar layer having a series of warpthreads spaced across the width of the fabric and extending lengthwisethereof, a layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer having beamthreads twisted about said warp threads to provide the net for saidfabric and a design at the front thereof, another layer disposed at therear of said pillar layer to provide a backing layer for said fabric,said backing layer having threads twisted about said Warp threads ofsaid pillar layer so as to define a net backing layer which is integralwith said fabric, said threads comprising said backing layer beingarranged to provide a design for said fabric at the back thereof, saidthreads of said backing layer passing in front of a warp thread, passingin back of said warp thread, passing in back of two adjacent warpthreads, and passing in front of said two adjacent warp threads wherebysaid threads are repositioned for repeating the movement to provide afining background at the back of said fabric and provide a smooth handtherefor, and a liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layerto provide an outline for said design, said fabric being provided withbobbin threads to connect said liner layer to said fabric at the frontthereof.

8. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layerhaving a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabricand extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series ofthreads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forming a backinglayer for said fabric, providing .another layer having a series of beamthreads disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming a net forsaid fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnecting thethreads of said backing layer in accordance with a predetermined patternwith the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backing layerintegral with said fabric at the back thereof and throughout the entirelength and width thereof, and interconecting said beam threads with saidwarp threadsto form said net and the design for said lace fabric at thefront thereof.

9. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillar layerhaving a series of warp threads spaced across the width of the fabricand extending the length thereof, providing a layer having a series ofof, said predetermined pattern being adapted to provide a finingbackground for said fabric and thereby provide a smooth hand at the backof said fabric throughout the entire length and width thereof, andinterconnecting said beam threads with said warp threads to form saidnet and the design for said lace fabric at the front thereof.

10. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillarlayer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of thefabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having aseries of threads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forminga backing layer for said fabric, providing another layer having a seriesof beam threads disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming anet for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnectingthe threads of said backing layer in accordance with a predeterminedpattern with the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backinglayer integral with said fabric at'the back thereof, said predeterminedpattern being adapted to provide a net design for said fabric at theback thereof, and interconnecting said beam threads with said warpthreads to form a net and the design for said lace fabric at the frontthereof.

11. A method of making a lace fabric, comprising providing a pillarlayer having a series of warp threads spaced across the width of thefabric and extending the length thereof, providing a layer having aseries of threads disposed at the back of said pillar layer for forminga backing layer for said fabric, providing another layer having a seriesof beam threads disposed at the front of 'said pillar layer for forminga net for said fabric and a design at the front thereof, interconnectingthe threads of said backing layer in accordance with a predeterminedpattern with the warp threads of said pillar layer to form said backinglayer int'egral with said fabric atthe back thereof, said predeterminedpattern being adapted to provide a fining net'background for said fabricand thereby provide a smooth hand at the back of said fabric,interconnecting said beam threads with said warp threads to form saidnet and the design for said late fabric .at the front thereof, providinga liner layer disposed at the front of said pillar layer for forming anoutline for said design at the front of said fabric, and interconnectingsaid liner layer to saidfabric with bobbin threads.

"References Citedin the file .of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS

